Graduation collection Amderma is built around the concept of social encapsulation.
The capsules in this context are clothes as the first physical layer, buildings and vehicles as the second,
cities and countries with its borders and politics, as well as virtual capsules such as mass media, software,
social web but also emotional and intellectual capsules which are placed in another capsule of language.
The concept of her project partly refers to the book of Lieven de Cauter "Capsular civilization . On the city
in the age of fear" where the author investigates the relationships between capitalism and architecture
drawing the parallels with detention camps, raising surveillance, exclusionary politics and immigration
Coming from Moscow and Amsterdam, Yana wanted to see the mirror of urban modern society and went all
the way to Nenets Autonomous Okrug, an indigenous area to explore the true nomadic habitat. Inspired
by the pale tones of the arctic landscapes, the possession-free yet severe way of living and the spontaneity
of the local architecture she built the visual language through which her collection communicates.
For her graduation she did a collaboration with the artist Lisa Plaut. www.lisaplaut.com The pieces of the installation Peeling were worn as runway props integrated in the clothes. These lifelike sculptures appearing from thegarments comment on the way we interact with the physical world by peeling of our virtual desires.
Aesthetically collection is ambivalent in a sense that it simultaneously represents openness and alienation.
With an exaggerated proportion of the windbreaker as a starting point she puts its details and seams away
from the original positions and warp the silhouette creating an illusion that the garments were formed
rather by natural forces than by elaborated design. By merging jacket parts with the draping shapes, she
attempts to built a single abstract organism suggesting growth and expansion.